Shadowy Depths Give Black Canyon its Ominous Name 

There are 388 national parks in the United States. Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon, and Yosemite are perhaps the best known. But many of the country’s historical sites -- such as the Lincoln Memorial, the Statue of Liberty, and Alcatraz Island -- are also national parks.

While your summer vacation plans may not include travel to far-flung destinations like Arcadia National Park in Maine, or Virgin Islands National Park in the Caribbean, you can still enjoy the undisturbed, natural beauty of our national parks. You’ll find four in Colorado -- Rocky Mountain National Park, Mesa Verde, the newly designated Great Sand Dunes National Park, and close to home, Black Canyon National Park.

No other canyon in North America combine the narrow opening, sheer walls, and startling depths offered by the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Best of all, the awesome view is just minutes from home -- the perfect destination if you’re entertaining out-of-town company, or if you want a quick getaway.

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison’s unique and spectacular landscape was formed slowly by the action of water and rock scouring down through hard Proterozoic crystalline rock. In some sections of the canyon sunlight seldom, if ever, reaches the 2,000-foot deep depths -- thus the foreboding name, Black Canyon.

Two bands of Ute Indians, the Tabegauche and the Uncompahgre, once inhabited the area. They called the canyon and the river “Tomichi,” meaning “land of high cliffs and plenty water.” The Ute were afraid to enter the formidable canyon, and the first Europeans to the area also skirted the canyon, considering it inaccessible.

In 1900-1901, surveys of the abyss were taken to find an inner canyon route, with hopes of building a water diversion tunnel from the river to the Uncompahgre Valley for use in irrigation. In 1905-1909, the Gunnison Tunnel was constructed. It is still in use today, providing irrigation water to the fertile lands of the Uncompahgre Valley.

The dark depths of the canyon divide the park into two distinct areas. The south rim of the park is located 15 miles east of Montrose, via U.S. Hwy. 50 and Hwy. 347, while the north rim is located 11 miles south of Crawford, via Hwy. 92 and the North Rim Road. The South Rim Drive is a paved road, approximately seven miles long with 12 overlooks. By contrast, the North Rim Drive is an unpaved road, five miles long with six overlooks and several excellent hiking trails.

The park shares its eastern boundary with the Curecanti National Recreation Area and its western boundary with the Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area. The rugged terrain ensures visitors will find solitude and pristine wilderness.

Hike along the canyon rim on a self-guided natural trail dubbed the Rim Rock, or wind your way to the summit of Green Mountain, a seven-mile round trip on the North Vista Trail.

Curecanti and Gunnison Gorge trails can be very strenuous as they descend into the canyon, providing access to fishing and wildlife. Easier options include the Neversink, 1.5-mile round trip, which offers great opportunities for viewing wildlife.

Permits are required for physically demanding inner-canyon activities including day hikes, climbing, and kayaking.

On both the north and south rim, you’ll find lots of opportunities for camping and picnicking. Leisurely boat tours are offered on the Morrow Point Reservoir. As you travel seven miles into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, majestic canyon walls tower 1,800 feet above you. You’ll experience the cool mists of Chipeta Falls (pictured) and the towering monolith of the Curecanti Needle, while listening to a park ranger share stories of the geology, wildlife, and colorful historic characters that make the Gunnison Gorge unique.  Prepaid reservations are required for the boat tour and may be made by calling (970) 641-2337, ext. 205, or visiting the Elk Creek Visitor Center in the Curecanti National Recreation Area.

The 42-passenger pontoon boat is reached by walking down 232 wooden and rock stairs then following Pine Creek Trail, which occupies an abandoned railbed. In the late 1800s, a narrow guage railroad wound its way through 15 miles of the Black Canyon, treating passengers to the wonders of the Denver and Rio Grande’s “Scenic Line of the World.” Portions of the railbed lie beneath the waters of Morrow Point Reservoir, but historic rail stock can be viewed at Cimarron.

Depending on the time of day, the water alongside the half-mile trail may be a placid lake or white water being released from Blue Mesa Dam. Fishermen abound along the rocks, and several picnic shelters provide shade and a place to rest.

Boat tours are offered through Labor Day every day except Tuesdays. Tours depart from the dock at 10 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.. Passengers should allow one hour to walk from the Pine Creek Trailhead to the dock.